Building a 15′ Metal Property Gate

Building a 15′ Metal Property Gate


now that my shop is done I’m gonna be tackling two huge projects on my to do list building two property gates The property has two gates one that leads to the house and one that leads to the shop so in this video I’m gonna be covering the process on how I built this gate leading to the house let’s jump into it this gate will be 15 feet long and 6 feet tall and made entirely from steel which meant I got a pretty good workout in while building it anything set up or built on the metal side of my shop I built the entire thing on my shop floor I suppose even if I had a workbench I would have still needed to build it on the floor because of its size I started by cutting the square tubing joints that will make up the bottom and the two sides of the mainframe I built up a standoff from wood scraps for the outfeed support on the material and make sure that every joint read level before making my cuts out the chop saw I’ve never built too gay before so before jumping in I did ask a few welder friends of mine on material thickness that I should be going with as well as if a diagonal should be incorporated into the design and the information I got back was no diagonal as it wouldn’t help with sagging since the gate will be longer than it is tall and to go with thicker material for the bottom join and the hinge side of the frame so that’s what I did the heavier stuff is quarter-inch thickness then for the top and unhinge side of the frame I went with 3/16 something that will help with sagging no is the top arch incorporated into the design not only is this decorative but it’s also functional I first bought two by two streets who being thinking I would just take it to a fab shop to bend it for me but not it was very expensive going that route and it turns out that a local steel shop called triple s sells different arches right off the shelf before cutting the arches to length I decided to weld up the bottom and the two sides first to get them in a fixed state before trying to measure for the arch I took my time to not only get the sides completely squared to the bottom but to also make sure that the material was nice and flat to each other I placed a few tack welds and different spots on both sides measured everything again to make sure that it was still square and flat and then came back to well the three sides closed without stuck in place now I felt comfortable cutting the arch the main thing to consider here is I wanted the center of the arch to be Center with the gate I first found Center on the bottom which was very easy to do is it just hard to pull the tape across to get Center on my arch though I pulled a tape from end to end then used a framing square to find Center on the tape then transferred that line to the arch then I could use my framing square on the bottom to help line up a straight scrap board to my bottom mark once that was in place I can move to the top and also align the board to the line up on the arch now I can go to the edges of my gate and mark the arch where it lined up to the sides of the gate and I marked the underside of the tubing so that I could avoid doing math and figuring out the angle here the second arch is the exact same length as the first so once I had the first one cut I could lay it on top of the second one and use it to trace my cut lines these were pretty quick to install as I just had to make sure things were nice and flat as I was talking and installing them and of course that they were spaced apart the same distance on the left and right side since I planned for this side to be the front of my gate after I completed the weld or the arches I came back with a grinder and ground down my welds until they were nice and smooth using this awesome new hood from Lincoln Electric that is an autodarkening welding hood but it can be flipped up to quickly become a clear protective grinding chilled this prevents from having to switch out headgear when needing to go between the two tops repeatedly during a project it is very cool in my opinion so the body of the frame is done at this point where the center will be filling in the space evenly with 3/4 inch tubing I first divided the space out evenly to figure out what the spacing between each picket needed to be so that I could cut a bunch of spacers made from wood then I would draw a tape across a span to see how tall the next picket needed to be cut to the bottom is cut it had a 90 degree of course but the top has that arch too but up to this means the cut angle varies so when I pulled my tape I would read the left and the right then mark two dimensions on my material at the chop saw so that I could connect the two with a straight edge and have a visual of the cut was needed and a lot of pickets were needed for the gate which meant that this was a very time-consuming process to speed things up I set up to cutting stations so that I could keep my chop saw at a true 90 and get the bottom cut then I used my porta ban to get those angled top cuts sticking the picket and my super jaws to cut it and also to grind down the ends if just a little bit needed to be taken off once I got to the halfway point things really picked up speed because I was then able to take the picket so I already cut it and use them to make a twin for the mirrored side this killed the measuring step and then I just had to pay attention to keep all the pickets in the right order after all of the pickets were cut out I started attaching them by first going through and tacking them in place by one of these pickets to be Center on the bottom rail so I grabbed a spacer that was the thickness needed and moved it to sit right underneath the picket the important thing in this step was to make sure that the picket was not only setting flat against the bottom spacer but also pushed up against the spacer dictating that distance between it and the next picket and to make sure that all my pickets were on the same line I used the same single spacer for the bottom and kept moving it from picket to picket but would tack a few along the bottom then repeat the process along the top taking that same spacer with me to place underneath them once I got to the end of the gate and verified that everything looked nice and straight and evenly spaced I went back through the pickets and welded them close actually I only welded the front side with the gate laying down after getting those done I stood the gate up using my super jaws to keep it from falling over then welded the sides as well as the back and it was absolutely awesome getting to see this gate stood up and being able to move around it for some reason whenever he was laying on the ground maybe because the shop is quite large but the gauges didn’t seem 15 by 6 stood up though it did start to sink in just how big the gate was with the gate upright I was now able to weld what will be the backside of the gates frame this was a side that was laying against the shop floor when it was down on the ground and I also capped off the end of the open square tubing I did this by clamping down on some flat bar and cutting off a portion just big enough to fit inside the juvie I used a magnet to hold it in place then tacked and welded it closed I’m using the new Lincoln 260 power mode for this project one of the things I’m absolutely loving is how quick it is to change between thickness settings a few clicks and turns of a button and I can go from 3/16 down to 16 gauge all my other settings stay the same and back into welding and that’s my friends is they finish gates it’s funny because even though this is one of the largest things I built it only took three days to get this far so if you have a gate on your to-do list then don’t think it’s out of the question to build one yourself alrighty next up was paint I called Brian and Cody for help on this one as I wanted to move the gate outside to the porch to first clean off as this gate weighs about 350 pounds they grabbed the tractor a few straps and made very quick work of getting it moved to protect my porch from the paint that’ll eventually do I set the gate on some OSB and also some scrap wood blocks though espía to protect the porch and the blocks to keep it up off the ground so I can get that bottom rail whenever I paint before painting now I gave the entire thing a good scrubbing as this material is very dirty I filled a bucket with soap and water then used a stiff bristle brush to over the entire gate and get all of them they’ll go off this was not a very fun step but had to be done after was clean I let it dry then started painting for the gate I went with a textured black spray paint by rust-oleum this is a protective and a mold pane that is fast drying rest preventative and a suitable for either indoor or outdoor applications one thing you can not see in the video but I cannot say enough about is the texture of this paint and how much I like it it’s like slightly gritty and bumpy and it gives such a cool feel to it when I actually put my hands on the gate I started by painting the fast and easy part of the gate which is the frame then I moved over to the pickets the technique I found to work the best as far as moving quickly and making it look nice is to start at the bottom and then stand up while holding down the trigger once you get into a groove it becomes easy to keep your spraying line straight and in line with the picket as you go from bottom to top I went through and I did all of the fronts first then I repeated tackling the sides as well as the back my original plan for the gate was not to stop here but to cut out an emblem of some sort and put it at the center of the gate and in fact I actually cut out a really pretty looking tree to do this I first found a tree image that I liked on the internet took the image to an office depot and had them print it off to the size I wanted for the gate I placed packing tape over the entire front of the image just to give the paper a little bit of rigidity as I wanted to turn this image into a stencil I cut it out with an exacto knife then laid that on top of some 16 gauge flat steel that I had as you can see I just traced it out and then whenever I removed the stencil I now have a tree that I could cut out using my padma cutter a tree is a very forgiving image as you can almost make no wrong cuts with it however once I cut out the tree I felt like it needed some sort of distinguishing background so that the metal tree wouldn’t get lost in the metal picket so I moved right into making some sort of wooden background for it and here’s where things started going a little bit sideways I really wanted the background to be round however with the tree being so much wider than it is tall I don’t think a round background would have looked nice so I changed it to be a rectangle that fit the tree but then arched the top and also the bottom to kind of match the shape of the gate a little bit however after getting both of them made I just decided that I didn’t like it and I did not want to put it on the gate so I ended up leaving it off and leaving the gate as is however I do plan to come back in the future and add something right now I’m thinking a compass rose because that’ll be nice and it will be round but we’ll see this was such a huge project not only the gate in itself but also the install so in the next video I’m gonna be covering the process on building the gate that leads to my shop which is a completely different design then I went ahead and did the installing of both of the gates as a completely separate video so that I can cover all the details for you guys stay tuned if you’re interested in seeing more and of course I would love to hear your comments on what you think about my gate I’ll see you next time